![]() ![]() Gain: 60 (could be higher, but I have the free plastic quick release, and if I bump it up too much I can get the occasional quick release slippage clunk, 60 is the sweet spot). ![]() But who cares about parking effects and who's gonna tug the wheel to the side and then let it go when you're going fast down the straight? So I chose to turn DPR OFF and have the best FFB and I can always save a slide as well. So you compromise between 0% - 50% DPR depending on your personal opinion of what's more important to you, The best possible FFB VS realistic parking effects and a dull and sticky but slow center alignment which could be theoretically safer if you were to tug the wheel on a fast straight for no reason and simply let go. When DPR is OFF then FFB is sharper, more crisp and detailed, informative, and therefore much easier to correct an oversteer. However, the higher this DPR value is - the more dull and slow the FFB becomes, so even though at 20% - 50% it produces a more realistic parking effect and a "safer" realignment effect in the case of driver error at high speeds, the overall FFB is dulled, and is actually way harder to correct a bad oversteer because everything about the wheel is slower and less informative. SPR: OFF (not sure what this setting does, all I know is my lap times seem to be better and more consistent with it off).ĭPR: OFF (adding a little will allow effects like harder to turn wheel when parking which is more realistic, as well as a wheel that re-centers itself in a sturdier and safer manner when going fast down the straight if you decided to tug on the wheel like an idiot for no reason). With DPR OFF the wheel will still realign, but because the FFB is not dampened (slowed), you can't just jerk the wheel to the side at 160 kph and let go, but with DPR on 50% for example, the FFB is so slow and dull that it won't allow for quick movements, so is therefore safer. INT: 1 (Dulls the ffb frequency, I would have this all the way OFF, but then the frequencies get so high that my nuts and bolts in my aluminum rig begin to hum and ring, so I bumped it up to 1). ![]() NDP: OFF (adds weight, like losing power steering, but also reduces FFB clarity). SEN: 900 (or 1080, or auto, not important so long as you have a 1:1 match in game)įFS: PEAK (linear doesn't use the full 8nm) They're never gonna update to address the new Damper settings, so here are my current settings for ACC with CSL DD 8nm that I have worked on for hundreds of hours in game and I honestly think should be adopted as the official recommended settings: ![]()
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